Tudor Pelagos, which was launched in 2012, has quickly grown to be one of the most sought-after luxury dive watches on market. This is a reflection of Tudor’s continued evolution as a brand that is very different from Rolex.
The Pelagos watch is unique in Rolex’s collection. It’s made of titanium, which is the only Rolex or Tudor watch to use the metal. Rolex does not have a brushed case. It’s also very unique in aesthetics, featuring square indices, Tudor’s signature “snowflake” hands, and ultra-clean.
It’s no surprise then that the Pelagos became a fan favorite. This is a reliable tool watch that few luxury watch manufacturers make anymore. The Pelago’s utilitarian nature makes it a niche watch. Fans have long longed for a smaller Pelago that is a bit less intense.
Tudor has created a Pelagos for everyone in 2022. The new Pelagos 39 is a smaller, lighter and more simple version of the Pelagos. It’s designed to capitalize on the trend towards smaller watches that has been in fashion for years after the era of bulky cases. This watch is aimed at a wider audience than the original Pelagos.
Tudor Pelagos 39 quick facts
MATERIAL: Grade 2 Titanium
MOVEMENT: Manufacture Calibre MT5400 (COSC)
SIZE: 39mm in diameter, 11.8mm thick and 47mm lug to lug distance
The Tudor Pelagos 39 is 3mm smaller than its predecessor. It is also thinner (11.8mm instead of 15mm) as well as having a shorter distance lug-to lug (47mm versus 51mm).
It’s also quite different mechanically. The Pelagos 39 does not have the same date window as the larger model. It is therefore a time-only item and has only 200m of water resistance. This compares to the 500m for the larger model. Nevertheless, 200m is enough for most wearers. You could dive with the Pelagos39.
The crown is also different. It’s smaller and more like a Rolex crown than the Tudor-shaped crowns we see on larger Pelagos and on the Black Bay range. Also, the dial doesn’t have the unique angle rehaut that the standard Pelagos have.
The dial and bezel of the Pelagos 39 have a sunray-brushed texture, as opposed to previous Pelagos’ matte finishes.
Although the integrated bracelet of the 39 doesn’t feature the trick expandable clasp found on larger Pelagos’, it does use Tudor’s T Fit adjustment system. This allows you to adjust the bracelet’s length in five different positions, each measuring over 8mm, without the need for a tool. T-Fit is an amazing micro-adjustment system that is far superior to anything Rolex has. The lack of a larger Pelago’s clasp is not a big deal.
The Pelagos 39 was worn on its rubber strap option, instead of the integrated bracelet. This is a simpler affair and features a standard tang-type buckle, with the Tudor logo embazoned on it, as well as solid titanium end links. The strap’s underside has a texture that recalls the watch’s snowflake hands. This is a very serviceable option, but nothing extraordinary. It works well and complements the watch’s aquatic nature.
Under the hood beats the in-house calibre MT5400, which is chronometer-certified and features a 70-hour power reserve, which is totally ‘weekend proof’. It is a smooth movement that is much thinner than the MT5612 in a larger model.
What is it like to wear?
It’s simply a delightful experience. The Pelagos 39’s smaller size is the main draw. It’s also lighter than the larger model. Tudor clearly wants to appeal to a wider range of genders with this watch. However, Tudor also wants to make it more versatile. more wearable. Although it’s still a hard watch, its slimmer dimensions make it more wearable for daily use.
However, my wrists are quite large and the Pelagos39 was not too small for me. It also fits under a shirt cuff more comfortably for desk diving. The Pelagos 39’s sunray dial and bezel stand out and make it stand out from other Tudor dive watches.
I find the lack of a date windows a problem. The Tudor Pelagos FXD, which has a fixed lugs, bidirectional bezel and no date window, was released last year. This Pelagos is considered a purer and more functional Pelagos. However, the Pelagos 39 is intended to be more casual, but the date window delete kinda goes against this.
This is a minor issue, but it won’t matter to most people. This helps to keep the watch slimmer, which is the main purpose of the Pelagos39.
The Pelagos 39 is a stunning piece that Tudor has been listening to and is now a step away from Rolex in style and substance. This is an exciting piece that has already attracted a lot of collector interest. You should get one fast to avoid the long waiting lists.
The Tudor Pelagos 39 costs just over $6,000. It also offers good value for money considering Tudor’s exceptional finishing and movement construction. It’s difficult to compare luxury 39mm dive watches on the marketplace. This is why Tudor chose such a large diameter.
38mm in weight, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre400 is a grand less expensive than the Tudor, has an impressive 5-day power reserve and is much more affordable than the Tudor, but it has a retro aesthetic with a faux-riveted wristband that looks a lot like a Tudor Black Bay and lacks the brand cache and refinement that Tudor has.
The Pelagos 39 may be the most competitive watch, as Tudor’s own line includes the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which has a 39mm diameter case and is also cheaper. The BB58, however, is made of steel and is thicker. It’s also retro-styled.