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The Hottest Womenswear Collections: Why Men Go Crazy for It?

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Just after the Miu Miu Fall Winter 2022 runway show, March saw the greatest example of collective wishful thinking in menswear history. The presentation that closed Paris Fashion Week was the most anticipated of the season. It was obvious that the latest collection of Miu Miu’s spring collection was in high demand. Many celebrities, influencers and editors were seen wearing pieces from the collection. This included the miniskirt and crop top for schoolgirls that quickly became a viral sensation. In an increasingly fragmented fashion landscape, Miu Miu was a rare point for consensus and the brand everyone wanted to own.

Evidently, this includes many men. The show was a success because a few male models were seen on the runway in tiny tennis shorts while another model walked out in lace-up motorcycle pants. This caused a lot of excitement among menswear websites.

Miu Miu is a Prada sub-label that was founded in 1993 by Miucca Prada. Since 2008, when the men’s line was quietly shut down, Miu Miu has been focusing on fairer sex. The fall collection was hailed by many outlets as a welcome rebirth. One headline read, “Fashionheads Just Had their Wildest Dreams Come True.” “At Last! Miu Miu Men’s Returns,” read another. TikTok reviews, which are usually the work of avid enthusiasts reacting livestreams or Vogue Runway slideshows to their content, were almost joyous. Officially, Miu Miu was the most talked about brand in men’s fashion.

It is important to note that a representative of Miu Miu said that the inclusion of gender-diverse models in the fall collection was not a relaunch for the men’s collection but the exact opposite: it was a statement about removing the notion of gender from (still women’s). The Fall Collection Show Notes explained that “Girlishness”–a fundamental part the Miu Miu persona- CAN be broader, viewed as an attitude, free from gender binary and expressed through castings that embrace a range of identities. The power of girlishness and femininity can be found, as well as strength in tenderness and wisdom in youth.

Many dudes don’t need such an explanation. Men are insisting on purchasing cool clothes like the spring collection of blue poplin button-downs and khaki trench coats. Kim Jones, Dior Men’s artistic director and Fendi’s chief designer, was a long-time Miu Miu fan who has a greater sense of hype than anyone else. He reportedly purchased most of the spring collection. Jones showed off a Miu Miu outfit on a recent trip to Japan: a khaki harrington jacket and gray cable-knit sweater with pleated khaki pants that were cut just below the knee. Jones rarely posts photos of the clothes he wears. The designer knows that Jones’ rare Miu Miu look, which he wears only occasionally, is a high-end style.

As popular as they are among celebrities and stylists, Miu Miu’s extreme takes on classic menswear pieces have sold out almost immediately after they were released. Miles Greenberg (24-year-old performer) has gone to great lengths in order to obtain grail pieces. Greenberg has been a fan since he first found a pair vintage square-toe Miu Miu men’s boots in Paris many years ago. He was instantly drawn to the mini skirt set that graces women’s fashion magazines this season.

Greenberg says that the “genius” of it is that they have taken the most boring uniform and made it the most fashionable thing in fashion. He found two skirts on the secondary market, which he will wear to the Venice Biennale. But they did not reduce each one by more than an inch. The retail version is slightly longer than the one that was on the runway last year and Greenberg wanted the actual thing. After they flew in a Biennale replenishment, Greenberg found matching sweaters and cropped shirts at the boutique. He also discovered that a man wearing the same style was more fashion-forward than a woman strutting through Venice in an abs-baring microset. He recalls crossing San Marco Square and feeling so proud of himself. “It was probably the most impactful thing I’ve worn in five years.”

Markets for archival items have also been blown up by the Miu Miu moment, which has exploded them from when Miu Miu had a men’s collection. Nancy Kote, cofounder of Heaven I Stay NYC’s fashion showroom, says that Miu Miu mens shoes used to be “dirty cheap” because vintage runway hunters were focusing on Helmut Lang, Raf Simons and Margiela collections at the same time. Kote says that Miu Miu men’s shoes used to sell for $40 in good condition. They can now be found in hundreds. Chad Senzel adds, “Everything I have recently sold has been very fast.” Senzel also stocks Miu Miu menswear in a vintage clothing bazaar.

It’s easy to see the similarities between Mrs. Prada’s mid-aughts designs and today’s men’s clothing at Miu Miu. She might explore radically different themes from season to season–Tyrolean-core one year, hunky hikers the next. The line’s simple formality and emphasis on unattractive accessories, which would have been a huge hit on Instagram if it was available at the time, feels deeply relevant to today’s men. The best part of the Miu Miu menswear show tease was the chance to imagine a Miu Miu-formen collection. Raf Simons (Prada co-creative director), whose eponymous collection interprets youth culture over the years, would be interested in getting involved. Men looking for sophisticated, elegant interpretations of modern dress codes should look to brands such as 4SDESIGNS or Prada. Ideas from the past Miu Miu men’s collections have been revived. (Prada’s beach-boy attitude in spring 2022 was strongly echoed by the spring 2007 Miu Miu mens’ collection.)

Joseph Shao, a London-based Miu Miu fan, believes there is a limit on how popular the brand will be in its current form. Although Miu Miu is expanding the range of feminineness, Shao says that the brand’s fall collection is still too feminine and womenswear. It is possible for the brand to introduce a capsule collection of men’s clothes or to expand its size range to appeal to a wider market. (A Miu Miu representative declined to confirm any future plans.)

Greenberg says that he would be almost disappointed if Miu Miu returned to menswear. He said, “I tried some of the pieces in the store and was just like, Oh, this literally is just beautifully tailored clothing.” It doesn’t have to be menswear, but I don’t think so. It can be used for everyone.” If Greenberg is any indication, the wildest fashion dreams of the fashion-obsessed may be coming true. “How cool would that be to have a completely non-binary Miu Miu?”

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